Cragging

Despite the dampest spring I've seen up here we've still managed to climb some rocks.  Temps are well below the summer highs but it's been warm enough to shift the focus from the pebbles to the cliffs.  A couple weeks ago Jessica, Drew and I met up with Jens in Oregon for a brief but sweet trip to Smith Rocks. 

It had been a couple years since my last trip to the tuff (vocanic tuff) and over a decade since I first climbed outside at Oregon's premier climbing destination.  While the granite bouldering doesn't do much to keep my arms fresh on Smith's extra long tech-fests, I found a few shorter pitches that suit my style.  We were only there for one full day but climbed three, it rained every day but not enough to soak the stone.  The monkeys always send.

After coming home we've all been a little more inspired to hit the crags, putting laps in at Nason Ridge, the Drip Wall (no longer dripping), random projects and most surprisingly, Midnight Rock. 

This incredible cliff is generally closed until August for Falcon nesting, teasing local climbers from high on the canyon side with it's soaring cracks and wild features.  Unexpectedly the closure was lifted this year, hopefully the birds of prey have found another good nesting site to hatch their young. 

Joel, Jens and I couldn't help being psyched on this development and despite a late start we packed up for the pitches we'd been dreaming about.  Jens borrowed some big cams for the indomitable Super Crack, while I grabbed an extra rope and some brushes for an investigation of the Dagoba System.

Like many plans however, ours changed.  Did I mention the late start?  The fact is easily forgotten that Midnight Rock is no laughing matter.  The approach sucks some life out of you, the pitches are long, physical and generally dirty, or at least neglected. 

Many routes need new hardware to be safely led, the Dagoba sports some of the nastiest looking bolts I've ever seen.

We did the standard Midnight Rock circuit, hitting up the same climbs we usually do, but it was still a great day at Leavenworth's best cliff.  Inspiration is high to give some love to this highly deserving crag.

Spring Training

We've been busy this week, hitting the trails and starting to build some fitness for the summer season.  Jens and Sol were lined up for another attempt at their "L-Town 15", a marathon suffer fest between the widely spaced gems of our area.  Jens was struggling with the motivation required for this day of battle, but was sure that Sol was psyched.  In classic fashion Sol was also having second thoughts but figured Jens wouldn't back down, he casually mentioned some adventure climbing instead, perhaps Bridge Creek Wall.  Jens and I turned to each other and smiled, we had been shut down on the BCW the week before due to weather and wanted to get up there before the short season for this wall was over.

Sol wandering up the first pitch

Jens had climbed this massive (for the Icicle) wall once before, as well as establishing a new route on a hidden aspect near the descent, the Hidden Wall.  It's always reassuring to climb with someone who's been there, but it certainly doesn't guarantee success.  Our plan was to attempt the Nose route, a six pitch outing directly up the center of the picture in the new guidebook.  Of course, mountainous walls are never that simple, we climbed ten pitches, some short, and weaved a serpentine path that just barely allowed us to top out.

Myself trying not to fall onto the precarious block hidden around the corner, fourth pitch

The hike, while strenuous and steep, went well.  We followed a decent trail to the top of some low-lying crags and then wandered up the sandy hillside, sometimes hitting goat paths and making some attempt to establish landmarks for the descent that we knew would be in the dark.  A steep mountain stream offered a chance to hydrate, this will dry up as the season advances, effectively shutting down climbing in the area.  You could carry your water from the bottom, but it probably won't be enough considering the intense heat that is sure to come.  

  Traversing off of the pedestal, pitch five.  Serious nut-tool gardening was required to utilize the crack I'm in.

Once at the base the adventure begins.  One of the cool things about this obscure wall is a lack of fixed gear, we only found bail slings which are more ominous than helpful.  We settled on what seemed like the easiest path that headed towards the obvious pedestal below the upper headwall.  Sol weaved through the ledges and cracks and got us to the base of this feature without much difficulty.  I grovelled up a grainy chimney, stopping for a quick dry-heave mid pitch, and gained the spacious ledge below said headwall.  This swath of stone is impressive and has potential for some amazing climbing.  Unfortunately the features are thin and widely spaced, the idea of a techno-aid route or a 'modern' free climb are pretty daunting way up on that hill.  Excessive motivation would be required.

Launching onto the link-em pitch, Mt. Cashmere's massive bulk looms in the background.

After a short traversing/gardening pitch I brought the boys over to my stance and considered giving the lead to Jens.  A wild chimney looked down on us, the only other option a blank looking slab to the left.  I still had most of the gear and wanted a real pitch, and I got one.  Two flaring cracks were separated by a single knob, Jens would later show me how to slab climb through this gap, my bouldering instincts took over and I did my first, and hopefully last, slab dyno.  A few more funky moves got us to a nice ledge and what looked like the rest of the route, a splitter offwidth pitch to a roof somewhere above.

Jens scraped his way up the grainy wideness, thankful for the big gear we lugged up the hill.  The next pitch was supposed to be the crux roof, supposedly followed free at 5.11 (on the first ascent?).  An easier, dirtier option to the left looked appealing, an obvious, small roof was directly above and Jens bravely continued towards this feature.  

A splitter hand crack (seen above) led to a marginal stance below the roof.  Our poor decision to not tape our hands had Jens cringing towards the lip, a valiant attempt to climb free ended quickly so we switched into survival mode.  The weather had vacillated all day but it was getting colder and the snow was approaching.  A lack of protection had Jens a little freaked out but he managed to clear the roof and not fall onto the slab below.  A piton or two would make this pitch much safer.  

  Jens under the gnar (top) and Sol getting his aid on, aka survival mode

One more easy pitch got us to the top of the wall, the snow began to fall so we didn't linger on top, we had about an hour of light to get back to our packs at the base.  One rappel, some dicey slab scrambling, and a little more steep sand was required to get past the Hidden wall and into a mellow gully.  Just as darkness fell we stumbled back to our stuff, very thankful to take off the climbing shoes and slip into some tennies.  

  Jens starting the descent

Sure enough, we descended in the dark, our landmarks totally obscured in the gloom.  Somehow we made it back to the climbers trail and found a final wind that carried us back to the car.  After years of looking up at the Bridge Creek Wall it was satisfying to make it to the top.  Our hope was to 'free the Nose in a day', while this didn't happen we know it's possible.  With our knowledge of the route and some more gear we'll be back, probably next year, for another attempt.

After a few rest days Jens and I took advantage of a brief window of good climbing conditions in the snow.  We hiked up to Colchuck Lake with an open mind and ended up climbing the '71 North Face route on Dragontail.  It involved a lot of snow, a smidgeon of ice and a tidbit of rock, some very high winds near the summit and about a mile of walking on the road, it's not quite open all the way to the trailhead.

Smidgeon of ice (top), tid bit of rock (bottom)

To round out the week I managed to climb one of my harder boulder problems to date, Spanman.  Not a bad week...

  Drew Schick on Spanman

The Life and Climbs of Charlie Barrett: Chapter 38 - Cremation of Care

 

Two years ago Charlie Barrett came to town.  Charlie likes big boulders.  He also likes conspiracy theories, childish pranks and Pabst Blue Ribbon.  His most impressive addition to Leavenworth bouldering during his relatively short stay is a proud direct finish to an already intimidating line, the Ruminator.  This old school toprope's crux is in the first two moves, steep pulls into an easier crack top out that looms over some jumbled blocks.  Charlie's line, while having a more uniform landing, tackles the boulders tallest aspect and includes some desperately long moves.

Charlie offered to try and repeat the problem, which he dubbed Cremation of Care, if I was interested in getting some photos.  My only problem with the plan was my lack of film.  The only roll I found in my fridge's butter drawer was a super low iso slide film, the kind that makes people look like tomatoes.  I was a little dissapointed with the results but I think Charlie's effort deserves at the very least a blog post.  Black and white seems a little easier on my eyes but I've looked at these so many times now it's hard to tell.

An observant reader who frequents the area might wonder how I got this view.  For those who don't know, there is no conveniently adjacent rock that looks down the face.  There is, however, a massive dead tree lying across the top of the boulder, you can see it behind Charlie's shoulder in the last photo.  I had no plans to use this tree as natural scaffolding but my dad convinced me it was solid.  My folks were visiting Leavenworth for the week and got to see Charlie send the gnar.

Seasons

The Last Night in Peshastin

We thought that winter was over, that April was surely too late for low elevation snow.  Seasons are supposed to change on a specific day, but the weather follows no calendar.  Seeing the snow covering the ground this morning reminded me of the ice climbing season just past and inspired thoughts of frozen mountain climbing in my near future.  It's hard to imagine now, we've been so focused on the boulders, trying in vain to grow enough skin to sneak up some new problems. 

 Jens in January

Jens in February

After the Icicle's icicles all fell down we still found some fun at the elusive elevation between spring rains and winter powder snow.  Eventually this too became water and the rock started to dry.  

Strangely, the rock seemed to dry faster on the West (typically wet) side.  With so much climbing around Leavenworth I don't make it to the Index area nearly enough.  Hopefully I can continue to motivate as the year progresses, it's only an hour away.

Bouldering in Goldbar this year involves great cross-training, the road has been re-graded but is now closed to vehicles.  Less 4-wheeler traffic has improved the ambiance, and a good hike is a great warm up.  Carrying more than one pad is not recommended but will hopefully get me in shape for the mountains.

New boulders are still being uncovered in Leavenworth, and some of the area's hardest problems are being done.  The snow is forcing us to rest and is cleaning the rock.  I'm finally getting some work done, more photos are on the way.

 

Goldbar bouldering video

Goldbar Bouldering from Max Hasson on Vimeo.

Der Sportsman Topo

 
Seven years ago Metolius published their catalog with a beautiful picture of Prusik Peak on the cover.  Inside there are two Ben Moon photos of Brooke Sandahl and partner climbing a route that turned out to be a new line, a direct route to the summit of this iconic granite spire.  Five years later my friend and current roommate, Sol Wertkin, contacted Metolius and requested more information on the climb.  Sandahl hooked him up with a detailed topo hand drawn onto a photocopy of the catalog cover.  During a recent organizational binge Sol uncovered this gem and before it could be lost in the proverbial shuffle I ran it through the scanner and have now uploaded it to the web for your downloading pleasure.  Enjoy.

d

(click on the pic to open a large, readable file)

The Enchantment Lakes - Summit 1970

Based out of Big Bear Lake, CA, Summit is a refreshing contrast to the modern mag with a very broad spectrum of subjects, not all strictly climbing.  They also reported heavily on the Northwest, this article is particularly local, the Enchantments are about twenty minutes of driving and less than a half day hike from my door.  It's interesting to note that the area was already seeing heavy use 40 years ago, a controversial permit system protects the area today while also hindering freedoms that climbers cherish.  At ten bucks a night the wallet is also affected, hopefully someday we can find a solution that pleases everyone but I'm not too optimistic.  Clicking on the pics should blow them up in another window big enough to read, enjoy!